Monday 20th January 2014
The Goldener Kessel (Golden Kettle or Boiler) is the original Altstadt (Old Town) outlet for the Schumacher brewery. The brewery itself is located about a kilometre away on Oststrasse which is quite close to the Hauptbahnhof (main railway station). As the Altstadt is the centre of the city, as far as eating and drinking are concerned it is almost essential that any self-respecting brewery has an outlet in this small area.
The brewery itself was founded in 1838 by Johannes Schumacher. In 1902 one of his sons Ferdinand (11) purchased the Goldener Kassel here at Bolkerstrasse 44, and also 46. Number 44 possessed a brewery but in 1925 this operation was transferred following the completion of an enlargement and rebuilding of the main brewery in Oststrasse. After then the Bolkerstrasse brewery was leased to a Joseph Schnitzler and number 46 became the main part of the restaurant. The premises were destroyed during an Allied air raid in 1942.
By 1948 the restaurant was up and running again at number 44. The adjacent property at 46 Bolkerstrasse was combined when the premises were rebuilt by architect Hans Günther to open as the new Goldener Kessel in 1958. This is the basis of the pub I was visiting this evening, although it had major refurbishments in 1994 and 2007. However, don't let this put you off as it is staunchly traditional in its operation.
Compared with the size of the classic Altstadt breweries this is actually a reasonably small pub, yet it is perfectly formed. The main serving area is to be found on the left with the rest of eating and drinking area spreading down the building.
There was a large oak barrel dispensing Schumacher Alt (4.6%) and nearby there was a particularly likeable wall-mounted sculpture of a carnival jester who is depicted handing down a glass of beer. I guess the idea is for a customer to pose, looking up at the harlequin.
Outside there is an area for al fresco drinking. Of course, there is a full menu offered with all the Rheineland specialities and more.
Naturally, as befits a pub that is at the centre of any Altstadt pub crawl, there is no way this one should be missed.
Schumacher-Bräu im Goldener Kessel, Bolkerstrasse 44, Düsseldorf 40213
Tel: 0211 326007
Open: Sunday-Thursday 10.00-24.00;
Friday-Saturday 10.00-01.00 (also the day before a public holiday).
This pub is very central being only a few minutes walk from the Heirich-Heine-Allee station and tram stop. This is served by trams 703, 706, 712, 713 and 715. U-Bahn lines are U70, U74, U75, U76, U77, U78 and U79.